TRAVELOGUE #14

When: Wednesday, June 21
Where: Siberia (#5 Train)

Now we are passing Lake Baikal. It truly is immense and very clear. Despite its vastness I can make out the mountains on the north side. On pebbly shores between the lake and the train tracks, I see Russian fishermen painting small rowboats. Apart from a few gulls flying over the lake, there is nothing actually on the lake. Not even a breeze disturbs the stoic surface.

This afternoon I started Dostoevsky’s Brother’s Karamazov. I also did some work with the phrase book I brought with me. Jeff, who is turning out to be a capital cabin mate lent me his mp3 player with Russian phrases. He also gave me a shot of vodka to “celebrate the successful crossing of the boarder” the night before. Presently we are moving through flatter country; half wooded (birch/pine) and half grassy field. It’s quite pastoral actually. I’m frankly a little surprised it has not been completely dressed in agriculture or cattle grazing. We got off the train at Irkutsk and I bought two cans of beer and a slab of dried fish. It’s pretty stinky. The fish, I mean.